You now those little ceramic villages that come out at Christmas time as decorations? Well they are pretty much spitting images of Zermatt, a town that really does step right out of a skiing fairies’ tale. Ancient wooden homes and luxury alpine hotels are nestled between majestic peaks and fondue restaurants that hypnotize you with smells of cheese and sizzling meat. You’ll have to check your car at the train station, because Zermatt is closed to all vehicles except for electric taxis and buses that can zip you around if your legs are too tired from a day of outrageous skiing.
What’s not to love about a town that frowns on traffic and car fumes in favour of the click clack of ski boots on cobble stones?
Take your pick of ski lift, ski train, ski gondola, ski rope tow, or ski cabble car to make your way up and around the mountain. Ridding the lifts all day provides its own sense of adventure. You would be hard pressed to cover the entire circuit of runs in an entire week. My recommendation for Zermatt is to leave the trail map at home and just follow your whims as you explore this absolutely gigantic playground. Around every corner, around every gaggle of tress, lies a window to an entire new area to explore. A “wrong” turn may lead you to a tiny fondue hut in the woods, or a gigantic open bowl or to yet another cabble car at the ready to whisk you to the top of yet another peak.
The majestic Matterhorn watches over you at every turn, reminding you that you are in one of the most infamous ski areas on the planet. Zermatt is all about the romance. You can’t help but feel embraced by the beauty and power of the Swiss Alps and you will soon find yourself with a belly full of cheese and hot wine in a sort of waking coma state. Friends of mine, Carl and Karen got engaged beneath the watchful eye of the Matterhorn, a mountain that has for sure seen its fair share of lovers marveling below as they hug and kiss for photos.
The Matterhorn museum is a great reminder of how enamored humans have always been with this triumphant mountain. And though many mountain climbing enthusiasts have lost their lives on the treacherous ridges, their sense of adventure and perhaps delusion lives on. The museum provides a window into the history of the area and man’s unabated ambition to conquer nature.
A few days spent exploring Zermatt, really allows one to loose oneself in the mountains. Deadlines, mortgages, meetings and general urban mayhem fade farther and farther away with each turn of a ski.
A picture perfect mountain for intermediates, those intimidated by the size and scale of this mountain will quickly realize that it is very friendly to all levels of skier. It is a great place to teach your significant other how to ski, or enjoy some runs with your slower friends. Experts can take a steep ridge down a slope, while the more novice skiers in the group make their way down the gentle switchbacks. You will all end up at the same place at the bottom at about the same time.
For those in pursuit of a challenge, the high peak cabble cars will transport you to some steep and deep ridges. Guides can take you even further and if you look way up on some of the rocky ridges, you may see skiers, equipment on their backs, crampons on their feet, scaling peaks to drop in on unspoiled terrain.
For those who love to ski off-piste, Zermatt is not the place for this. Every year, tourists perish in the crevices that lie covered by thin layers of snow. A duck under the rope could lead to a hundred meter free fall into the belly of the mountain.
You can also ski in two countries in one trip to Zermatt. A dual mountain lift ticket will enable you to ski Zermatt’s little Italian cousin Cervinia. Cervinia is on the backside of the Matterhorn and skiing over there really does feel like you are in another country. A great place to drop in to for a little pasta and vino lunch.
After a day of skiing several kilometers of vertical and horizontal terrain, you can make your way back to the base and stop at several of many Après ski huts, restaurants and bars. There are so many, it’s hard to choose. One stop may offer delicious hot chocolates and deserts, another a group of hard drinking Swiss Germans, and yet another, groups of friends dancing on tables to a live band. Be sure to stop at the Hennu Stahl to wrap up your Après adventures. You can raise a shot ski and ski-boot-boogie till dark. Après ends a little earlier in Switzerland than Austria because you need time to get home and prepare your belly for the onslaught of dinner cheese.
The Swiss Chalet is Fondue restaurant perfection and is in the centre of town. Get your fill of cheese followed by meat fondue with delicious sauces in a perfect Swiss atmosphere.
For some big beers and pool games, head to Country Bar, for a little low-key conversation and great ski run tips from the bartender, check out Little bar and for a night of entertainment and dancing go to Grampi’s. Grampi’s is well known for it’s resident piano man. This guy is part brilliant, part insane. It is impossible to watch him without laughing, signing along and even crying a little. You’re not quite sure if he is all there but you can’t help but stare and become entranced by his over-the-top antics and crazy assortment of hats.
Another Après ski activity, sure to be a hit with Canadians, is a little outdoor shinny. Rent some hockey skates and sticks and head to one of two outdoor rinks. While the more “professional” looking rink closes at dark, the other stays open all night. Who needs more than moonlight for a game of hockey under the stars?
Zermatt is easy to get to by train from Geneva. It takes about 3 hours right from the airport and in the winter, the trains run constantly.
A perfect location for a big group of friends, or a romantic getaway with your honey, you will not run out of things to do, food to eat or runs to ski even if you stay for an entire month. Zermatt will suck you in and produce enough good times to last you the rest of the year.
And they all lived happily ever after. The End
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