Those serious about powder should not live life without ever skiing Whitewater. This little secluded beacon of skiing goodness delivers. The snow comes before the party has started and generally sticks around long after most of the guests have left. Never the unwanted guest, just the gift that keeps on giving, those in search of the perfect powder will find it. And those who like their powder on some mean pieces of rock, will over-indulge every time and still find room for seconds and thirds.
Canadians know about Whitewater. But since Nelson is not the easiest place to get to, some decide to head elsewhere. Their bad. For those who make the trip, Whitewater still haunts their dreams. So get on a plane and fly to Castlegar if you can, or drive a few hours from Spokane, 7 hours from Calgary or Vancouver and don’t worry, the gas money will be worth your while.
You get the feeling you are close to Nelson when most of civilization has long since passed. The trees are bigger and greener, the rivers are faster and fiercer, all signs indicate that some real, remote, rocky wilderness is at hand. And when you pull into the beautiful town of Nelson, you know you have arrived. This historic place really bustles. The buildings are beautiful, the hospitality commendable and while the inhabitants of Nelson are as varied as they would be on a city block of downtown Toronto, they all share a love of the incredible outdoor atmosphere.
The Selkirk Mountains loom large and while the lift system is not extensive, it has no need to be. An old two-person chair lift will take you to the top and then, you can play to your heart’s content. With an average snowfall of 45 freeakin feet, those not wanting to even try powder might want to take a pass on this mountain. But for anyone hungry for a little cliff-pie, or anything else that may tickle a tough terrain fancy, it exists and then some.
Most of the locals/seasonal ski bums take to touring. You may see them once as they head off in the morning all rigged up and ready to hike and ski and hike and ski some more. But there is no need to head far off-piste to find deep snow and a lot of challenge. Lift lines? What lift lines? Congestion? None. The only thing to watch for are the really good skiers who may surprise you as they pass. That, and an occasional deer or rabbit that will scurry away as you head into some glades.
While Nelson is a tourist destination and has some tourist prices, you can find great places to stay for not too much dough. We stayed, a huge group of us, at The Dancing Bear Inn hostel and it was awesome. This beautiful wood building has comfy bunks and friendly hosts. You don’t need much to get your sleep on after a day on Whitewater. It’s also easy to do some trips, whether with a guide, on a cat or by helicopter. There is a lot of backcountry terrain and the locals can take you into it to explore even further.
Restaurants from quick and simple to gourmet and luxurious abound and the bars really get going, especially on weekends. Do find the big local favorite and sign some karaoke. You will seriously see the most varied and diverse crowd of loggers, truckers, skiers, artists, students, hippies, punks, and grannies, you could possibly imagine. There does seem to be some tension amidst all the people who call Nelson home, but guests, who come for the week, and leave, seem quite welcome. You can understand however, how someone could visit this place and never want to call anywhere else home ever again.
Vastly beautiful with wild vistas and rugged scenery, Canada’s reputation for her breathtaking wilderness could start and end here. You know that you will be challenged by Mother Nature the instant you set foot in these parts and no matter how badass of a skier you think you are, you will feel humbled by the Whitewater.
